• What We Learned in Singapore, Java, and Bali – and Merry Christmas 2023!

    When our Mideast trip went ‘poof’ for obvious reasons, we thought we’d head somewhere warm and relax instead. A cruise to Singapore, Java, and Bali? Sounds good, right? It was beyond good, but it wasn’t the warmth and relaxation that stuck with us. Oh sure, we left our footprints in warm sand on distant beaches, and swam laps in delightful swimming pools. And yet…. We also toured temples, mosques, historical sites, and oodles of museums, and all that learning changed us somehow. The cultural richness of Southeast Asia intrigues us – did you know that ALL the world’s religions originated from here? – and now that we have returned home…

  • Singapore/Indonesia: A Sudden Travel Pivot

    We were THIS close to embarking on our latest bucket-list travel adventure to Israel, Istanbul, Jordan, and Dubai.   I bet you can guess what happened next.   When I clicked on CNN one early October morning, there it was, the huge black word – WAR – and an ominous photo of flame-trailed red missiles shooting across the dark Tel Aviv night sky. We had booked three late-November nights in Tel Aviv, but I didn’t wonder for a moment: I knew what the stark headline and missiles meant for our latest adventure. As I set to work on the necessary cancellations and tucked our half-finished lectures back in their cases, I wondered…

  • Thailand, Vietnam, and Japan: Buddhists and Buddhas Everywhere!

    I can see Russia from my cruise ship! Well, maybe that’s Russia – it definitely will be Russia tomorrow morning. For the next week, we occupy a room on the Celebrity Millennium as it sails across the Bering Sea (with a stop in Russia, if the Russians see fit to let the passengers off. Sometimes they just say ‘nyet’ we’re told, and miss out on all that tourist cash. Bad capitalists…..). This week, I hope to NOT do two things (eat too much cruise food or read the news) and plan to concentrate on one thing: Capturing our Epic Journey in words and pictures, before my memory starts its inevitable…

  • The Golden Triangle: Burma, Laos, Hill Tribes, and My First World Assumptions

    We were sitting on red ants. We had crossed the border into Laos, and at the local market children had been trailing our every move, pestering us: “Baht! baht!” – imploring us to give them money, pointing to our Diet Coke cans, asking us to buy some for them (we think that’s what they wanted, anyway). As hard as it is for both of us to say ‘no’ when asked to help (especially when the askers are children), we listened when our guide Ranee told us that if we gave in, we’d cause a mini-riot among the poor children. So we hardened ourselves and kept saying ‘no’. But now the…

  • Thailand: Ancient Kingdoms, and an Elephant or Two

    A ride on an elephant was definitely not part of the plan, but here we are: riding on elephants. Go figure. We knew we were going to visit an elephant rescue camp, but if you’d asked me yesterday if I would ever ride an elephant in this lifetime, that would be a definite ‘no’. So glad we did (Padre even swam with them), and the elephant rescue camp impressed us so much that I plan to devote an entire post to our visit and the camp’s work in the near future, as well as longer posts on topics such as Burma, our visit to the Northern hill tribes, endemic poverty,…

  • Vietnam and Malaysia: Chaotic Scooter Culture, Vibrant Markets, and Rickety River Bridges

    Let it be known that we did not die when we rode, perched in the front baskets of trishaw bicycles, through the middle – and I mean the middle – of Central Saigon traffic. I thought I might be a goner when my driver stuck his bike – I mean he stuck ME, since I was on the front of the bike – into the middle of an intersection, where waves of scooters revved, impatiently waiting to zoom across from three different directions. I closed my eyes and braced for impact, but they must have stopped for me, or I wouldn’t be writing this now, would I? Millions of small…

  • Vietnam and Malaysia: What War Leaves Behind

    Catfish and Mandala, by Andrew X. Phan, 1999. 342 pgs. ★★★★★   Five stars for a tale that every American who remembers the Vietnam War and its aftermath will appreciate. ★★★★      Four stars for page-turning narrative, occasionally too raw and real for some. I’ve read many titles in the growing canon of Vietnam War books, and hoped to visit Vietnam someday for many reasons, not the least of which had to do with my profession. Early in my career as an English teacher, I welcomed a handful of Vietnamese and Cambodian refugee students into my classroom. I was drawn to their stories and struggles, and couldn’t imagine what they must have endured…